DIY Preparation and Installation
Good preparation and installation is essential for a trouble free artificial lawn, providing years of enjoyment. Download the guide here.
Recommended tools and products required
- Timber and pegs for base perimeter
- Electric screwdriver and screws
- Delphin or Stanley knife with spare blades
- Power brush or stiff brush to raise the pile once the grass is installed
- Turf cutter or shovel to remove existing natural turf
- Rake to spread and level aggregate
- Wacker plate or roller
- 1 or 2 layers of weed membrane
- Sharp sand or Granite Dust for laying surface
- Type 1 aggregate, primary material for sub base
- Artificial grass to cover area required
- Glue to join seams (only required where rolls of grass are to be joined)
- Joining tape (only required where rolls of grass are to be joined)
- Toothed trowel (required to spread glue if glue and tape is required to join rolls)
- Skip (may be required for removal of natural turf)
It’s vital to prepare a suitable base to ensure that the installation is long lasting, stable and not liable to flooding or movement:
See here for typical base construction using a) concrete haunching or b) timber/composite batten for edging detail
When planning your artificial grass garden always bear in mind that hot sunlight, reflected and amplified by windows, mirrors and other reflective surfaces, may cause artificial grass to melt or be scorched. Avoid installing artificial grass too close to surfaces which may cause damage.
Remove existing turf
Remove the existing turf and soil using either a turf cutter or shovel. It is best to remove the turf to a depth of 2 – 3.5 inches. Free draining lawns will require a 2-inch base, whereas poor draining lawns will require a 3 to 4 inch base.
Clear room for sub base
With all turf removed, the area is ready for the sub-base to be installed. The area should be edged by a timber frame, or concrete haunching, which provides a firm edge to hold the base material in place and a secure fixing point for the artificial grass. The timber edge should be fitted approximately 10mm below the surrounding level, depending of the pile height of your chosen artificial grass.
Lay weed membrane and fill area with aggregate
Install the first layer of geotextile weed membrane on top of the soil. This will prevent the sub-base sinking into the mud. It is best to fill the area with Type 1, sometimes known as MOT (crushed stone) or Grano Dust. For Clay or Boggy soil use between 65-100mm of Type 1, for free draining soil 50mm. A Grano Dust base of around 40mm will be sufficient.
Level the area
Make sure the Type 1 or Grano Dust is evenly spread and smooth off any lumps with a rake. The Type 1 should be raked level with top of the timber perimeter edging and then compacted with a wacker plate. Compact the Type 1 with a wacker plate and blind off with a thin layer of Sharp Sand. If using Grano Dust, no Sharp Sand is required, Grano Dust when compacted gives a smooth enough finish
Using a wacker plate, make sure that all the Type 1 is compacted to a smooth finish. This should lower the Type 1 to approximately 10mm below the top edge of the perimeter timber. Now spread on the sharp sand and compact with a wacker plate, screed off to a smooth finish level with the top of the timber edging.
Note: Grano Dust is coarser than sharp sand, so binds very effectively to create a great laying surface for the membrane and artificial grass. Sharp sand may have a tendency to move in the medium and long term so Grano Dust offers a good option to avoid that issue.
When using Grano Dust no sharp sand is required so top of compacted surface should be level with top of timber edging.
Install second layer of weed membrane
Install the second layer of geotextile weed membrane and secure to the top of the timber edging with screws or staples. This will prevent any weed growth. Use a Stanley knife to cut the membrane to the required layout.
Install the artificial grass
Lay the artificial grass out and leave to settle flat. Once you are happy that the grass is flat and settled, you can then cut it to shape using a sharp Stanley knife. Blades will need to be changed approximately every three metres of cutting.
Join rolls are artificial grass
When joining rolls of grass, cut evenly down the side of a stitch line on each roll of grass, perhaps 1 or 2 stitch lines in from the edge of the roll. Butt the two pieces together and check the join. It is quite possible there is still some trimming to be done.
Once you are happy the two pieces of grass are butted up exactly, and that the join is not visible, fold both pieces back and lay the joining tape (shiny side down) evenly between them. Apply the glue evenly to the middle 5 inches of the joining tape and spread with a fine-toothed trowel. Carefully fold both pieces back in to place and apply gentle pressure to the join. Make sure the glue is not too thick or it will push through the join or the drainage holes. Insert 1 screw either side of the new join to ensure that the grass remains in place while outer edges are being trimmed.
If using our glue tubes you can use a mastic gun to apply the glue to the joining tape. If using 8kg tubs of Wetbond or Profix you’ll need to pour the glue from the tub on to the joining tape and smooth it out using a trowel or similar straight edge. Apply the glue evenly down the tape creating a 4 to 5 inch wide run for the best adhesion. Do not ‘zig zag’ the glue as the adhesion will be insufficient.